Sunday, October 28, 2012

Pchum Ben, King Sihanouk's death, and the start of school


Hey guys,

So it’s been a while, huh? Last you heard I was gallivanting around Vietnam, eating yummy new foods and riding around on the back of a moto with a hot dude… What?

Well, now I am back in Cambodia and reality has set in. Not to say that reality is a bad thing, but it's always a little hard to get back in the swing of things after a relaxing vacation... Also, WE JUST STARTED SCHOOL. That's right, school has just begun in Cambodia. Last year my school started late because of flooding in our village. This year it was because there was a holiday to honor the ancestors: Pchum Ben. During Pchum Ben Khmer families visit the wat to offer up food to the monks who "soh toa," or chant to relieve the ancestors of their suffering. Then everyone goes home to eat a big meal together and, for some, drink into the evening.

With my family at the wat

Since the holiday's date changes with the Lunar calendar, it fell in the middle of October this year instead of the end of September, so most schools just waited to start school until after the holiday. We’ve only been in school a week and already we have two days off this upcoming week: Monday for Prince Sihamoni’s birthday (not a national holiday but why not?) and Wednesday for King Sihanouk’s birthday. If you haven't heard, Sihanouk, who was revered amongst Khmer people as a kind of father figure to Cambodia, died early last week of a heart attack. He was 88.  Many Khmer people are convinced they saw his face in the moon the day after he died. A bit of a stretch, yes, but hey: as of yet no one's put a Sihanouk grilled cheese up for auction on Ebay so...

On a different note, the library project is still comin’ along, but sloooowly. At this point I am waiting to start on a new aspect of the project (STAY TUNED TO FIND OUT WHAT) which is dependent on when my librarian has “free time”— a very liberally used time slot which can last anywhere from an hour to an entire day, depending on the person asking and the impending tasks. Being “busy” in Cambodia can mean actually being preoccupied (teaching, washing your clothes, working at the market, etc.), or it can mean laying in your hammock all day and not wanting to be bothered. Here is an exemplary dialogue between my co-teacher and me upon my request for a Khmer lesson.

Me: Hello, Nam Heng! Do you have free time this afternoon to teach me Khmer?
Nam Heng: No, no. Very busy! Busy busy! For me, very busy!
Me: Oh, okay. (Pauses. Hears TV in the background) What are you doing?
Nam Heng: So busy! I have to go now bye bye. (click)

And there you have it.

Anyway, that’s about the news from here, folks! I hope you are doing well, but if not, it's okay because even Darwin had his bad days:


Love to you all.